03.25.09
Posted in Uncategorized at 9:34 am by Lance Storer
The world of wine has exploded over the last two decades, with new producers popping up every day in every corner of the world. Long gone are the days when being cutting edge meant that you were in tune with the next cult Cabernet or garagiste Saint-Emilion producer or securing the top estates in Burgundy. Today, quality wines are being produced in China, Russia, India and every state in the United States. So, how is a customer to weed through the thousands of mediocre offerings that are flooding wine shops, grocery stores and big box stores and come out of it with a wine that will offer genuine character, integrity and pleasure? Over the years, I have found that a nearly sure fire way to pick up something new and interesting without getting burned is to shop by importer. No one can keep up with every producer out there; I continually give it my best effort and it cannot be done! If I know the style of wine that a particular importer favors, then I can pretty safely navigate my way into a new wine experience and not have any major qualitative surprises.
I recently had the opportunity to taste through the North Berkeley Imports portfolio from top to bottom with only a few exceptions and walked away with two pertinent pieces of insight about the importer. A). They are fanatical about quality and pay upfront (VERY rare in the wine business) to insure that the producers handle the grapes and elevage in the manner they wish to achieve the quality results they desire. B). All of their selections, whether from France, Italy, Chile or California show typicity of place, with elegance, pretty aromatics and long term age ability as well as near term drinkability. Armed with a basic knowledge of the STYLE of wines that any importer believes in will take away much of the risk involved in selecting wines that you may have not tasted before. Below are some of the highlights from tastings. Enjoy!
Burgundy:
Frederic Magnien Chablis Valvents 2006 Mineral driven with laser sharp precision, this shows crisp green apple, pear and lemon with a hint of a sea salt type mineral streak in the finish. Terrific value!
Boyer-Martenot Meursault Charmes 2006 Appropriately named ‘Charmes’, this charming offering shows the power of Meursault, but the identity you would expect from NBI with an elegance and graceful demeanor. The flavors are a combination of baked apple and peach with a zingy citrus note at the core. Classy stuff.
Delarche Corton-Charlemagne 2006 With so many Corton wines these days showing so much ripeness, power and overt oak, they nearly blur the lines between the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuits. Not so with the Delarche! This wine shows red apple skin, peach, pear and the tell-tale white pepper spice throughout that I always look for in Corton. Absolutely delicious, drink now or hold.
Domaine Arlaud: I am withholding my notes on the 2007 vintage as the wines were bottles less than one month prior and obviously suffered from bottle shock as well. Overall, they showed nice ripeness of fruit, good acidity and length, but were disjointed and a little flat. I hope to re-taste these offerings in the fall in order to form a better opinion. Here’s a few 2006′s that are impressive and a better representation of the domaine.
Charmes-Chambertin 2006: A vibrant ruby color with a rich, supple texture. Flavors of red and black cherry, raspberry and cola are balance with a distinctive core of mineral and acid. Terrific length and tannin integration and fresh as a daisy.
Bonnes-Mares 2006: A dazzling effort with a deep penetrating core of dark red and berry fruit flavors and a spiciness that no doubt get your attention. Tannins are well-integrated and the alcohol is kept well in check. I could still taste this wine a full two minutes later.
Clos de la Roche 2006: This is a must-have! It shows a sweetness of fruit that made me think of liqueur and compote, but very good acidity and a boatload of mineral to keep the wine serious. Very sexy stuff and despite the ripeness, I suspect this will age quite gracefully for a couple of decades.
Rhone:
Domaine la Milliere Cotes de Rhone VV 2007: Producers and pundits alike are giddy about the 2007 vintage in the Rhone and if these offerings are any indication, I would say for very good reason. This showed sweet black cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, framed by white and black pepper. Grenache certainly puts its mark on this wine, but it is remarkably chewy and dense for a village level Cotes du Rhone. Definitely one to look for in the future.
Domaine la Milliere Cotes du Rhone Villages TrÃ’s Vieilles Vignes 2007: This is 90% Grenache from 100+ year old vines and it takes texture and depth to a whole new level. You might think this to be a good quality Chateauneuf du Pape rather than a village wine. This is a very pure, highly aromatic offering that deserves a place alongside your prized bottlings in the cellar.
Domaine la Millere Chateauneuf du Pape VV 2007: This was extremely forward and generous, but left you with the conclusion that it is very serious juice and will only get better and better for years to come. It is mostly Grenache, with Syrah and a touch of Counoise and Cincaut. The aromas of lavender and rosemary dominate at first, but with swirling, give way to black fruits, cherries, kirsch and raspberry; concentrated yet fresh on the palate and in the finish, it shows blueberry, plum, black pepper and lavender/violets.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone VV 2006: This is stylish, high toned offering with notes of cherry, cassis, licorice and smoky meat. Despite the ripeness levels, it shows an elegance and generosity that should provide immediate pleasure as well as last for many years to come.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone VV 2005: This is classic southern Rhone with notes of cherry, kirsch, herbs de Provence and lavender. The finish is long and offers lots of spice making it the perfect accompaniment to our typical summertime fare.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone Reserve 2006: The 2006 is not as full bodied as the 2005, but still offers a serious similarity to Chateauneuf du Pape. High toned red fruit flavors dominate here with violets and white pepper spice in the finish.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone Reserve 2005: This little stunner is a dead ringer for Chateauneuf du Pape. It shows of cherry, blackberry, kirsch, pomegranate and licorice with tons of spicy notes throughout and a 60 + second finish. Terrific juice!
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone les Quartz 2006: This is pretty dense stuff, with lots of mineral notes and acid to back up the ripe black cherry, blackberry and currant fruit. Good length and easy to drink, I’d probably drink this now and sit on the 2005 for a bit.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Cotes du Rhone les Quartz 2005: Again, this is not dissimilar from Chateauneuf du Pape, but perhaps a little less concentration and spice than the Reserve, but more mineral and acid. The likely fruit components of blackberry, cherry and kirsch are there, but there is a distinctive note of crushed stones and wet rock in the mid-palate here. Very nice wine.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape 2005: With the exception of 2002, Chateauneuf du Pape has been on incredible run of fantastic vintages and 2005 is no different. This is the basic offering from Clos du Caillou and it could pass for a tete de cuvee for many other producers. It’s a dense, concentrated wine with lots of sweet black cherry, blackberry and cassis, but with a mineral streak running through the core that keeps it in the framework of North Berkeley style. I thought that the 05s would require a little more cellar to come into their own, but this is drinking beautifully now.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape les Quartz 2005: This too, is in a great drinking window right now. The most appropriate term I can come up with for the les Quartz is fresh. It is not as deep and brooding as the AOC wine, but lovers of flowers, crushed rock mineral and high toned red fruits will love this beauty. I know I do!
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 2005: One of the main criteria for me when assessing wine quality is balance and this stellar contribution handles that in spades. It has power, ripeness, freshness, impeccable balance of alcohol and acidity, followed by a finish that goes and goes. This is in the top five of the finest Chateauneuf that I have tasted from the vintage. It’s not an inexpensive wine, but is certainly one that will deliver drinking pleasure for a couple of decades or more.
Domaine du Clos de Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 2006: This is fantastic Chateauneuf, but I find it only slightly less complete that the 2005 now. It is a little less concentrated with higher acids and more red fruits than black fruits. The finish is nearly as long as the 05, so if the acids integrate a little over the coming years, it very well could rival the lofty standard set by its predecessor.
Italy:
Vittoria Prosecco Brut NV Conegliano Valdobbiadene: Very fresh and lively, this refreshing sparkler provides more interesting flavors than your average Prosecco. It offers red fruit notes of cherry and raspberry alongside the typical note of chalky lime and finishes fresh and clean with a note of minerality.
Dama del Rovere Brenton Lessini Durello Brut 2008: I can’t recall ever tasting a 100% varietal Durello before this wine, but I’m happy that I stumbled across this little gem. Historians havbe traced this varietal back to the 13th century and it appears that there’s very little left in the world. It shows a unique spice character that I couldn’t quite put my finger on. In the palate, it shows tons of Granny Smith apple and lime zest but finishes with an onslaught of quince and gooseberry. If not for the voracious effervescence, you might mistake this for New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Interesting juice; should be available by summertime.
Tenuta Alberice Friulano 2008: This won’t be bottled until May, but keep an eye for this in the future. Mineral lovers will really get into this as it shows lots of wet rock and saline mingling with the flowers and white peach flavors. It’s got very good weight and enough acid to keep it fresh.
Terralsole Rosso di Montalcino 2004: This is outstanding Rosso; in fact, I’ve had Brunello that didn’t provide as much enjoyment as this offering from the relative newcomer, Terralsole. Fruit flavors of dried cherry, apricot and currant are well supported by ripe tannins and very good acidity and followed up by tertiary notes of leather, tobacco and dried herbs.
Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 2001: It would be hard to miss the boat in 2001 as there were so many good wines in the vintage, but Terralsole knocked this one out of the park. The ’01 is really starting to come into a great drinking window too, as it has shed some of the firmness of tannin and tightly would fruit. Now, it shows ripe, supple flavors of cherry, raspberry and plum with a silky texture and exotic spices throughout. I stopped trying to time the finish at around 160 seconds. Awesome stuff. Terralsole didn’t miss the boat and you shouldn’t either!
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11.19.08
Posted in Uncategorized at 8:56 pm by Lance Storer
Eccentricity among wine importers is so common that the term nearly seems ill-accredited. Oddity and peculiarity are attributes that make the pursuits of these lunatics so very special. I speak not of importing easy to understand and even easier to market (with the help of cute, furry animals) fruit bombs. No, I’m referring to naturally made wines that speak to a sense of place, wines that are soulful and are never over-processed. These are wines from vignerons with no aspirations of fame, glory and “monster” scores. They only strive to farm their land with respect and provide pleasure.
I recently boarded a 5 a.m. flight bound for New York City to attend the 20th anniversary portfolio tasting of Louis/Dressner Selections and can assure you that providing pleasure and selling wine with integrity is the driving force behind this idiosyncratic selection of vine juice. I spent over 5 hours tasting through nearly 270 wines and kept asking myself why I don’t drink more of these gems on a day to day basis and more to the point, why don’t our customers drink more of these completely satisfying and more often, completely well priced wines. The tasting order was so maniacal that I felt compelled to put my notes here into an order with some sense of logic…but as Dressner points out, organizing this many varietals, AOCs and DOCs is a futile effort. Most of these wines have never been in Texas, but we make these journeys in hopes of ferreting out the most interesting little gems for our customers. We hope it’s what sets us apart from much of our competition that buy wine according to formulas and point scores.
Table 1: Alsace, Rioja and Corsica…Why Not?
Wines 1-14: This table had some very interesting Alsace and Rioja wines, but I did not feel like they were significantly better than many of the Alsace and Rioja wines we are already offering, but the Minervois wines from Chateau d’Oupia were all delicious!
10). Chateau d’Oupia Les Heretiques VDP Rouge 2007 : Made mostly from old vine Carignan, this shows ripe fruit with subtle spices. It is balanced and complex, especially the $10.99 price tag. This is one of the few wines that are already in the market. This is really tasty juice for the modest price tag.
11). Chateau d’Oupia Minervois Rouge Tradition 2007 : This is dominated by Syrah, a little Carignan and some other minor players. More concentration here with brambly red and black fruits, high toned spice and firmly structured. Good length.
12). Chateau d’Oupia Minervois Rouge Cuvee les Barons 2006 : The top bottling at Oupia from hillside vineyards and barrel aged for 2 years. This is certainly a little more refined wine, showing suppleness that the other 2 wines didn’t have. That wild, sauvage, brambly profile is still present, but it’s toned down a bit here. Long, smoky finish.
Table 2: The Savoie, Bugey, Costières de Nimes and Sweet Bubbles!
Wines 15-29: I don’t really know what we would do with a bunch of high end vin de Savoie et Bugey…well, I do actually, we would end up drinking the wines ourselves because they are really tasty. Sadly, they are really expensive given they come from a relatively unheard of appellations on the French/Switzerland border.
15). Pascal & Annick Quenard Chignin Vieilles Vignes 2006 : From 104 year old Jacquere vines. Pretty serious juice. This reminded me a lot of Muscadet, but with much more weight and complexity. This has a saline/mineral character that some may find difficult to get past. I suspect this will age beautifully. Very interesting
16). Pascal & Annick Quenard Chignin-Bergeron 2007 : From 80 year old Rousanne vines, this would be a fun wine to insert into a blind Northern Rhone tasting. Viscous like Rousanne should be with rich, complex flavors of apricot, peach, honeycomb and flowers. Very fine.
17). Pascal & Annick Quenard Mondeuse 2007 : Who couldn’t use some Monduese in their cellar? What in the world is Monduese you ask? This is an Italianesque varietal grown in the hills of Savoie. Some even claim it is identical to Refosco. I don’t know about that, but this some darn good tasting juice from 60 year old vines. It shows lots of dark cherry, berry and dried cassis fruit. The tannins are firm and fine grained and the finish is quite lengthy.
25). Franck Peillot Roussette de Montagnieu Altesse 2007 : The name here confuses me a bit as Altesse is a synonym for Rousette, so I don’t understand putting both on the label…¦whatever, this is really good, really interesting white wine grown on very steep hillside vineyards in a cool climate. So of course, you get concentration, you get mineral and you get acid. There’s complexity too and terrific length.
***EDIT*** Okay having Roussette and Altesse on the label was bothering me, so I looked it up. Apparently, in Rousssette de Montagnieu, you can use any white varietal of the region. So, to differentiate this wine, Peillot put Altese on the label. Whew! I feel better now!
27). Franck Peillot Mondeuse du Bugey 2006 : 100% Mondeuse that, at least for my taste, shows a very atypical, ripe and juicy style. It even has deeper color than I would expect. Dark berry, cherry and raspberry fruit. Firm tannins and a long finish. According to Dressner, this wine had a prominent placement in the Adam Sandler flick, I Now Pronounce You Chuck and Larry. I guess I missed it to, but wouldn’t mind sitting down to a bottle of this with a movie.
28). Domaine Renardat-Fache Cerdon du Bugey Methode Ancestrale 2007
Alain Renardat is a respected vigneron in Cerdon. He and his son Elie make their Cerdon from Gamay and Poulsard, and follow the technique called “ancestral method” (in wider use is Methode Champenoise, or else plain carbonation, the preferred method used for supermarket wines). The grapes are picked by hand, pressed and fermented in cold vats until the alcohol reaches about 6 degrees. After a light filtration that leaves most of the active yeast in the unfinished wine, it is bottled and continues its fermentation in the bottle, reaching about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol and retaining a fair quantity of its original sugar. The result is a delicate strawberry, raspberry and cranberry flavored beverage that can’t help but please the palate. We would have liked to have had this throughout the summer, but if you want to put a smile on the face of your guests for Thanksgiving, hand them a glass of this when they walk through the door.
Table 3 – Puglia, Sicily and Alto Adige!
Wines 30-41: I had skipped over this table and went back to it late in the tasting. I probably should have tasted it earlier as most of these wines were lost on me. I have nothing of consequence to report.
Table 4 – Puzelat Brothers, Natural Bordeaux and Dard et Ribo!
Wines 42-52: The Cheverny wines from Puzelat were very interesting, but I would have liked to have tasted them with some food…judgment reserved. The Bordeaux wines were very good, but we currently have no shortage of Bordeaux! The Dard et Ribo wines seem to have a small cult following, but I wont be signing up. I found the wines to have good purity of fruit, but very atypical and, at least to my taste, not in a good way. Again, there’s nothing to report here.
Table 5 – Sparklers Not Appearing at Today’s Terry Thiese Tasting!
Wines 53-64: Ah yes! For about 90 seconds I pondered whether I could rip through this tasting and make the Terry Thiese extravaganza over in Tribeca in the same afternoon. Better judgment prevailed as I would have had to taste wine at a 30-45 seconds per wine clip and it really wouldn’t have done justice to either portfolio. Besides, the Thiese wines are en route as we speak, so I’ll have the opportunity soon enough to go through those. There were some outstanding sparklers at this table, but the first to wines I’m going to list were the biggest surprises. First is a little blurb about what Julien Fremont is doing in Calvados, followed by my notes on the wines.
Julien Fremont works in a breathtakingly beautiful farm in the Pays d’Auge, Calvados. This is Camembert and Livarot country, and of course cider and Calvados, a place where cows and apple trees have defined the landscape for more time than can be remembered. It is green, lush, softly hilly, the soil rich clay with silex, and the climate humid and mild.
The farm has 45HA of grazing fields, 12HA of which are planted with apple trees. The cows mow the grass, prune the trees in summer and eat the fallen apples, until it’s time for the harvest from late September until November. The apples are picked by hand in large baskets, then put into 50KG bags. The trees are a mix of old local varieties of acidic, late ripening apples.
The apples are washed and sorted, then pressed in the press Fremont ancestors built in 1765. Some juice is immediately bottled for apple juice, and the must for cider is put in large vats where fermentation starts. It is essential for fermentation to go slowly, mainly thanks to natural early winter cold, and racking. When the alcohol reaches about 4.5%, the must is bottled so that the secondary fermentation, creating the fizz, can start. This bottling is called Brut par nature.
A selection of apples comes from a particular orchard of old trees. Those are kept in the well-ventilated attic for several months, and passerillage occurs, where the apples dry out and the sugar levels concentrate. When these are pressed and fermented, they make a special bottling called Greniers(attics.)
I think these cidres would make another terrific addition to the table for the upcoming holidays. The Dressner guys are working hard to get Texas label approval in time for Thanksgiving. Step out of the box and surprise you’re your guests this year!
53).
Julien Fremont Cidre par Nature – A very dry cider (too dry for the AOC – “just enough sugar to make the mousse”) with complex ripe apple and floral aromas, creamy, earthy spiciness on the palate, refreshing and delicious!
54). Julien Fremont Cidre par Nature Greniers – A remarkably smooth, rich and complex cider for after dinner with pie, crepes, fruit tart…fantastic stuff!!!
61). Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Bl de Bl Premier Cru Non-Dosé
This is bio-dynamically farmed fizz with no dosage. The term bone-dry must have been conjured up for this wine! Given its dry nature, it is still very rich and powerful. It offers exceptional finesse, as well as remarkable intensity and richness on the palate. In the market now.
62). Larmandier-Bernier VV Cramant Extra Brut Bl de Bl Grand Cru 2004
This is the real deal, no additives, honest type of dry bubbly that you can cellar for years to come. On the palate, it reminds me of Grand Cru Chablis with its chalky minerality and briny aromas that make you think of the sea. This is great stuff and in the market now.
Table 6 – Laurence and Eric Texier!
Wines 65-80: I really like Texiers wines. These are not the ripe, high alcohol offerings that garner high praise from the looming wine press, but rather more ethereal wines with elegance, purity and balance. Think of these as Rhone wines for Burgundy lovers!
Eric Texier became a winemaker after a first career and without any family background in vines or wines. As such, his goals and methods developed not so much from his years of schooling, but from his readings, his visiting winemakers around the world, and working in Burgundy with Jean-Marie Guffens at Verget.
Like all good winemakers, Eric strongly believes that wines are made in the vineyard, and that his work, after the harvest, consists in following the lead of the vintage, and accompanying the wines so they fulfill their potential. Exact steps in vinification vary according to the varietals, terroirs and vintages, but the goal is always to provide the grapes, musts and wines with the best environment and intervene as little as possible.
His techniques for white wines include sorting in the vines and at the winery, whole clusters pressed in a vertical press (that’s the old fashioned wood kind), no added yeasts, barrel fermentation (less than 10% new wood), aging on fine lees, malolactic fermentation for all dry wines, minimal use of SO2, no pumping, fining and filtration only when absolutely necessary.
For his red wines, he does the same sorting at harvest, 100% destemming most of the time, bringing the grapes to the press by conveyer belts, cold maceration under a CO2 blanket for aromatic extraction, natural yeasts, pigeage and remontage twice a day, during maceration and fermentation. The temperatures are controlled not to exceed 34 degrees C (93F), aging is done in 2 to 5 year old barrels of 228L and demi-muids of 450L, with only limited use of new oak, no filtration and egg white fining only when necessary.
71).
Cotes du Rhone 2006 : This is what Cotes du Rhone tasted like 15 years ago. It is quite simply a delicious, fresh and wonderfully balanced quaffing wine. This is not meant to be a “baby” Chateauneuf du Pape. Pair this beauty up with a roast chicken and let it do its thing!
73). Brezeme CDR Syrah VV Domaine de Pergault 2006 : An old vine parcel consisting of 60 to 100 year old vines. Kirsch, creme de cassis, cherries and smoky bacon fat wrapped in a velvety smooth texture, with a warm, long finish. Excellent.
75). Cotes Rotie VV 2006 : 40 to 70 year old vines from the Cote Brune. Shows cassis, black raspberry, olive tapenade, bacon fat and toasty oak. Rich and smooth, with good structure and the balance you would expect from Eric.
77). St. Gervais Cadinieres VV CDR Villages 2005 : Yes, he poured a Cotes du Rhone after the Cote Rotie! Of course, it held up perfectly. This is fashioned from 100+ year old vine Grenache from the right bank of the Rhône.
Table 7 : One Auvergne and Lots of Beaujolais That Are Not Being Served at the T. Edwards Tasting Today!
Wines 81-94: I would be hard pressed to identify a better group of Beaujolais wines in any portfolio coming into the U.S. These are treated in the same manner as Pinot Noir is Burgundy. There’s no carbonic maceration, tooty fruity, bubble gum vino here. These are just, good down to earth, honest wines at fair prices. Pssst! These are the PERFECT styles of wines to put on the table for Thanksgiving.
82). Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees L’Ancien VV 2007 : This is old style Beaujolais…light and fruity, moderate alcohol and weight, downright refreshing! In the market now.
83). Terres Dorees Morgon 2007 : Fairly straightforward, textbook Morgon here. Notes of crushed black and red raspberry, cocoa and cinnamon with a good amount of grip and persistence.
84). Terres Dorees Fleurie 2007 : Another shining example of terroir driven Gamay. In Fleurie, I always expect lots of floral aromas and this one delivers that in spades. Violets, black cherry and cassis. Delicate tannin and plenty of length.
90). Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive 2007 : Sweet cherry fruit at the core with background notes of tart cranberry, Christmas spices and plenty of floral quality in the finish. Delicious and could even stand up to some bottle aging.
94). Georges Descombes Morgon 2006 : This showed much more power and intensity that the Brun and Roilette wines with spicy, brambly fruit and a structured mid palate. This is pretty big wine without being over bearing. Serious Beaujolais.
Table 8 : Beaujolais that’s 100% Gamay, 3 Macons that be 100% Chardonnay and 2 Barberas!
Wines 95-107: Beaujolais, Macon, and Barbera??? Why not! Oh yeah, and they through in a couple of Languedoc wines for good measure! There were a couple more Descombes wines on this table that I assume they were just trying to separate from the others to show off the additional vine age. The wines from the Maconnais didn’t wow me and the Barbera offerings were interesting but not something I would take home.
95). Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2006 : This comes from 80+ year old vine material and shows the structure you might expect from vines of that age. The wine shows black cherry, currant and cassis fruit, Asian spice and lots of grip. Serious wine here folks!
96). Georges Descombes Brouilly Vieilles Vignes 2006 : This was the flashiest Beaujolais I tasted, showing fresh blueberry and nearly liqueur-like richness on the palate, with graphite and mineral undertones and finishing with a lip smacking savory quality that will keep you coming back for more!
Table 9 : Domaine Sylvie et Thomas Morey : a New Estate!
Wines 108-119: Sadly, Domaine Bernard Morey has split in two. The two sons, Thomas and Vincent are sharing the vines and have setup separate facilities and domaine names. Unfortunately, they do not have the touch that their father did. I have nothing to report here.
Table 10 : A Piedmont Break!
Wines 120-134: There were many interesting wines here. Too many to list really, and this is supposed to be the highlight list anyway, right? Besides, in the next couple of weeks, I will be featuring a whole slew of rockin Italians. Here’s a few now to get you in the mood!
120). Teobaldo Cappellano Dolcetto d’Alba Gabutti 2006 : Tiny producer only farming 3 hectares. This is just plain delicious! Silky texture, sexy ripe fruit and fantastic length.
123). Cascina degli Ulivi Gavi 2007 : 100% bio-dynamically grown Cortese. The fermenting juice has long skin contact and half of the wine is aged in barrel and half in stainless steel. This shows more richness than you expect from a Gavi, with pure fruit notes of apricot, peach and white flowers. Fantastic stuff!
130). Roagna Langhe Bianco Solea 2003 : Chardonnay and white Nebbiolo that has been held for three years at the winery prior to release. Yes, you read that correctly…I said white Nebbiolo. Geek alert!!! This is pretty cool juice showing notes of pear, apricot, Fuji apples and flowers. Fascinating wine!
131). Roagna Barolo Rocca e la Pira 2001 : This is a no-brainer. 2001 is a great vintage and with the vineyard sites and in the capable hands of Luca Roagna, I suspect folks will be enjoying this beauty for 3 decades or more. It has tons of dense black fruit now, with the tell-tale leather and tobacco notes lingering in the background. With some swirling, this shows some really pretty aromatics. Buy a bunch, lay them down and watch them mature for a very long time.
133). Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda 2004 : According to one source, Rionda combines power and classic Barolo structure with an aromatic complexity of improbable dimension for Nebbiolo…one might say it’s the La Tache of Barolo… I don’t know about all that, but it was VERY tasty and the aromatics were indeed deep and academic. 2004 is another great vintage for Barolo and this wine did not disappoint, with notes of dried cherry, roses, leather, tar, tobacco and tea leaves. The finish was extremely long, but showing quite a bit of oak at it’s young age. Definitely one for the cellar.
Table 11 : Domaine Vincent Morey, Marcel Richaud Cairanne and Montesecondo Chianti!
Wines 135-146: Much like the wines of his brother, I was not too terribly impressed with Vincent Morey’s offerings. The Marcel Richaud wines were very good, but I found them to a little too pricey for what they were. I have nothing to report here.
Table 12 : Happy 20th Birthday Louis/Dressner Selections!
Wines 147-155: To celebrate their 20th year in business, our hosts graciously opened up a handful of wines from the 1988 vintage. What a treat! The most surprising wines were the Loire Valley wines. Why more people don’t cellar these wines is beyond my comprehension. I didn’t take many notes at this table as I was trying to make this table less about business (can’t buy them anyway) and more about the pleasure of tasting mature, properly aged wine.
147). Domaine de la Pepiere Clos des Briords Muscadet 1988 : Still fresh and vibrant. Great fruit, bright acid and good length.
149). Domaine Bernard Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embazees 1er Cru Blanc 1988 : Fantastic! Makes me sad to taste wine like this and know that the domaine may never be able to achieve this again. Hopefully the sons can coax more out of these vines in the future.
152). Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg 1988 : Great stuff! Very elegant, with blackberry, cherry and currant fruit, laced with violets, truffle and tobacco. World Class Cab Franc!!!
154). Francois Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert 1988 : Tons of mineral-laden pit fruits. Extremely long finish.
155). Francois Pinon Vouvray Moelleux 1988 : Rich, supple, complex and long. Should last another 20 years.
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Table 13 : Jura Whites and Non-Extracted Burgundies from Marechal & Pacalet!
Wines 156-167: The Jura wines at this table were terrific and possibly the most mineral driven wines I’ve had this year, but the revelation for me here were the wines of Philippe Pacalet. I’m not sure that I’ll be able to secure any of these wines because of the miniscule quantities produced and it appears that the top sommeliers in New York all clamor for these gems. I’ll be harping on them, but wont be holding my breath.
Pacalet is a small negociant in Beaune, but works the vineyards himself. He has chosen sites that are planted to pinot fin, the old selection missale of Pinot Noir, meaning there are no clones here, just the ancient Pinot stock that made Burgundy holy land that it is today. This root stock apparently will always give wines of lighter color, but the payoff comes with wines that are ethereal, balanced, finesse driven and ultimately fine. As you might imagine, being in the Dressner portfolio, he uses all indigenous yeasts, no destemming and very little new oak.
161). Philippe Pacalet Nuits-St-Georges 2006 : Fairly dense and chewy, almost deceptively so given the lack of color. Cherry, berry, tobacco and mineral with a subtle, silky mouthfeel. This is very seductive now, but will be rewarding with a little patience. ‘
162). Philippe Pacalet Pommard 2006 : I’m not always a fan of Pommard because they often lack the finesse and delicate nature of Pinot with their aggressive tannin. That is not the case here. The wine is medium bodied with beautiful integration of ripe fruit, fine grained tannin and a long, balanced finish.
163). Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 2006 : Ripe cherry, strawberry and plum fruits surrounded by firm tannin, crushed rock and a light wood note. Needs some time…I found it very tightly wound at this stage.
164). Philippe Pacalet Chambolle-Musigny 2006 : An elegant, floral and crushed dark berry fruit scented Chambolle with soft tannin and no evidence of new oak. Very charming.
165). Philippe Pacalet Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2006 : More structure and power than the AOC offering. This shows mostly dark berry fruit, more wood, but in a suave, seductive presentation. Outstanding.
166). Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Perrières 2006 : Very elegant for 1er Cru Gevrey. The color was nearly translucent, but the flavors were very pure, very persistent and require patience. There’s lot of mineral in this offering too, which I love. Outstanding.
167). Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air 2006 РThe color, balance and integration here were much the same as Perri̬res, but it lacked the minerality. Beautifully integrated and very seductive. Very good.
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Table 14 : Red and White Muscadets and Loires!
Wines 168-183: At this stage in the tasting, I was beginning to feel some fatigue and was seeing my notes become less enthusiastic and descriptive. Well, a table full of Muscadet and Touraine wine will certainly wake up the palate with their refreshingly high acids and great mineral dimension.
168). Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet-sur-Lie-de-Sèvre-et-Maine 2007 : This could have been subliminal since everytime I have Muscadet, I crave oysters but I could have sworn that this wine smelled of freshly opened oyster shells with tons of fresh green apple fruit. As expected, this wine showed lots of mineral and acid and an almond note in the finish. Very tasty stuff.
169). Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet-sur-Lie-de-Sèvre-et-Maine Clos des Briords 2007 : This is entirely massale selection Melon de Bourgogne from 80 year old vines. Much more complex, this showed off an array of nuts, apples and flowers with a salty, chalky mineral component. There’s plenty of acid here too, but this cuvée showed a richness not found in many Muscadet. Fantastic!
170). Domaine de la Pépière VDP Rouge Cuvée Granit 2007 : Fashioned form Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Gamay and Côt (Malbec), this is essentially red Muscadet but There’s no AOC for red Muscadet, hence the VDP moniker. This is pretty geeky stuff and I suspect that the green bell pepper would turn some folks off. Personally, I do not like bell pepper in my wine; however, I did not find this an offensive trait for this particular wine. Weird juice, but I liked it for its peculiarity.
171). Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet-sur-Lie Pierre de la Grange VV 2007 : My notes for this wine read something like this: pale green-tinged color, crisp acid, sour, zippy, fresh, laser-like…blah, blah, blah. That all points to the one thing that makes Muscadet so desirable and SO perfect with shellfish; it is lip-smacking, refreshingly good juice that clears the palate and makes you beg for more!
172). Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet-sur-Lie-de-Sèvre-et-Maine Clos des Allées 2006 : This is a whole different level from the Grange, with ripe Granny Smith and Fuji apples, lime, chalky mineral and almonds. The texture is nearly viscous, but with that core of acidity to keep it fresh. Alongside the Clos des Briords from Pépière, this could be the best Muscadet tandem available in the U.S.
180). Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Sauvignon 2007 – Clos Roche Blanche is a model of non-interventionist winemaking. The winery has been farming organically since the 1970s, and beginning with the 1995 vintage, the winery received the official “organic agricultural” accreditation. They hand-harvest their grapes. The must is handled by gravity at all stages. The wines then age on their lees, and are bottled by gravity by hand without filtration to avoid mechanical manipulation that would unsettle it. This wine sees no wood and is quintessential Sauvignon Blanc with notes of quince, citrus and mineral aromatics that lead to a snappy mouth feel and endless length.
181). Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Gamay 2007 : This wine has a cult following and for no other reason than the fact that it simply tastes good. This is one of those wines that don’t require a lot of thought or pontification. It tastes good, it comes in under $20 and you should buy this by the case!
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Table 15 : Cult Wines from Italy, Some Made by Twins!
Wines 184-197: The Radikon wines absolutely carry a cult status. They are also not for everyone as they are treated to very long macerations, oxidative vinifications and barrel aging for 3 years prior to bottling. Oh yeah, he also does NOT add SO2 at all, so they can be unstable. They are not as radical as the bottlings from Gravner, but certainly are made with that mentality (no anfora here). To save space here, I’m not posting notes on the wines, but will list the wines that are available to those that know and love them. They are freaks, and I mean that in a positive sense; but much like Gravner, these are misunderstood wines. Here’s what is available: Jakot 2003, Ribolla Gialla 2003, Oslavje 2003, Ribolla Gailla 2001**Killer stuff**, Oslavje 2001
Oslavje Riserva Ivana 1997, Merlot 2000 in 1 liter bottles
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Table 16 : Asti, Sundry Chevernys and Assorted Loire VDT’s!
Wines 198-208: Aside from some interesting but not inexpensive Cheverny wines. I didn’t find this table very exciting and moved through fairly quickly. Nothing to report here.
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Table 17 : You Are So Nice, Cool, Fine, Bubbly, René et Jasnières!
Wines 209-220: First of all, I can say without reservation that I am almost always against the cutesy, artsy label with the cutesy, clever name. In my experience, these wines are usually marketing machines with very little substance in the glass. Well hell, the wines of Domaine le Briseau have proved me wrong. They have a quartet of cuvees that come in at or below $20 and deliver so much bang for the buck that they cannot be ignored…even if they are marketed cleverly! The ‘You Are So’ lineup are very carefully sourced organically grown grapes and the labels are drawn by a Parisian artist friend of the Chaussards.
209). You Are So Nice : 2/3 Côt (Malbec) and 1/3 Gamay. Spicy blackberry, raspberry, cherry and kirsch with a supple texture and good length. Tasty stuff!
210). You Are So Cool : 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 2/3 of the grapes here are bio-dynamic and the other 1/3 come from organic vineyards. It is barrel raised Sauvignon that sort of typifies the style in Touraine. Bright and crisp with ripe fruit, good acid and a roundness provided by the barrel treatment.
211). You Are So Fine : 100% Chenin Blanc from Vouvray. This is low yield Vouvray raised in 5 year old barrels and left with some fizz in it to keep it lively.
212). You Are So Bubbly : Forget about sparkling Shiraz with all that residual sugar for Thanksgiving! This is DRY sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cinsault and a little Cabernet Franc that tastes like real red wine…it’s just fizzy and oh so fun.
Table 18 : You Are So Francois or Savennières!
Wines 221-232: This table featured the wines of Francois Chidaine and Francois Pinon. Chidaine’s wines haven’t been available in Texas before and I was very keen to try them as they are legendary among top sommeliers. Pinon’s wines are getting a lot of attention as well, but I found them to be less precise, with more overt oak and chunkiness.
Francois Chidaine has worked alongside his father Yves for many years, in two independent estates. He works his vines the old-fashioned way, but does    not want any mention of organic viticulture on his bottles even though he is certified organic. He champions the Chenin Blanc grape and its ability to produce vibrant wines that age gracefully.
Chidaine’s estate is divided into 8 distinct plots, with much of the vineyards between 40 and 80 years old. Clos de Breuil is Chidaine’s sec, or dry, cuvée of Montlouis, while Clos Habert and Tuffeaux are demi-sec, or off-dry cuvées. A stunning Methode Traditionnelle, or pétillant, is made with grapes from younger vines.
221).
Francois Chidaine Montlouis Clos du Breuil 2006 (sec) : Very pure Chenin with notes of honeysuckle, apple, tangerine and orange. Lots of floral notes and excellent mineral. Finishes long and dry.
222). Francois Chidaine Montlouis les Tuffeaux 2006 (demi-sec) : This is not a single vineyard, but rather an assemblage of vineyards and my guess is that this will score well with the critics. It is VERY floral and showing tropical fruit, citrus, honeysuckle, beeswax, peach and quince notes. This is remarkably pure with a finish that just goes and goes and goes. Great wine.
223). Francois Chidaine Montlouis Clos Habert 2006 (demi-sec) : This hails from a single plot of 60 year old vines. It boasts a nose of honeyed apricots, toasted almonds and quince. Equally as persistent as the Tuffeaux, with perhaps even more mineral.
224). Francois Chidaine Vouvray les Argiles 2006 (sec) : Nearly dry, this Chenin shows pineapple, grapefruit, tangerine, almond, violets and licorice notes with moderate to good acidity and very good length. Very good.
225). Francois Chidaine Vouvray le Bouchet 2006 (demi-sec) : Riper still, with sweet apple, pear and almond notes. Very long finish, showing lots of richness and good acid in the back.
Tables 19 and 20: Sancerre and Chinon and Bourgueil and Saumur!
Wines 233-257: There was really only one wine on table 19 that wowed me, so I combined 19 and 20. Between the two tables, there was a great Sancerre and the best collection of Cabernet Franc I may have ever tasted at one time.
235). Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Monts Damnes 2007:(limited) From vineyards scattered around Chavignol, this very well could be the replacement for Crochet, which seems to be creeping up in price every time we reload. It showed great purity, chalkiness and considerable richness. Gooseberry, grapefruit, white peach and lime on the nose lead to a juicy, silky texture with a long, rich, but decidedly mineral finish.
248). Catherine & Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont 2006 :These are 50 year old vines and the vinification is done in barrel and wooden vats. Yields here are 25 hectoliters per hectare by comparison, the yields at Chateau Cheval Blanc are around 40 hectoliters per hectare for Cabernet Franc! Classic blue fruits are found here with lots of structure and earthy truffle notes. Drink now or hold. Very good.
249). Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Senechal 2006 : Definitely one I would lay down, this is more structured than the Chinon Beaumont, though the tannins were more fine and silky. This is very full-bodied, old school Cabernet Franc showing cherry, cassis, violets, tea leaves and for mineral junkies like me, this wine will more than do!
252). Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil les Perrières 2006 : Order this one up and put it away for at least 10 years, then drink the case over the next 10-15 years. This is monstrous wine from 70 year old vines, boasting cool berry fruit, graphite, espresso and violets in a dense, chunky package that will pay BIG dividends to those with patience.
***Quick blurb about the producer of the next 3 wines***
Clos Rougeard
Clos Rougeard is owned and run by two brothers Jean-Louis (“Charly”) and Bernard (“Nadi”) Foucault. The vineyards have been farmed organically forever. The wines are unfined and unfiltered, and with an unusually small amount of sulfur.
Clos Rougeard, for most folks, is considered THE reference point for Cabernet Franc in Saumur and Saumur-Champigny. I had only had the pleasure of tasting Rougeard on one prior occasion, our last trip through the Loire, where an astute sommelier turned us on to one that as I recall (can’t find those notes) had about 10 years of age on it. I have heard several wine nerds call these wines out as amongst the very best Cabernet Franc in the world. My experience with them is so limited, that I can hardly go that far, but things are certainly positive from my perspective. I cannot wait for these wines to arrive so I can drink one (okay, maybe two!) and lay the rest down for 10-15 years.
255). Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Clos 2004 : A blend of several parcels averaging 25 year old vines, this shows considerable concentration and depth. The fruit is dead on Franc, with dense berry, raspberry and currant notes with that ever-present violet floral component. This is very pure and chock full of mineral, but this would be the shortest lived wine of the bunch I’d say no more than 10 years in the cellar for this beauty.
256). Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny les Poyeux 2004 : Poyeux comes from 40-60 year old vines and is fermented in a mix of oak barrels. Half of the wine is fermented in new Allier barrels; the other half is fermented in 1-year barrels purchased from Ch. Margaux and Ch. Haut-Brion. Initially, this wine showed a dense, smoky, meaty component to its classic Franc aromas and flavors. After some swirling and especially after I dumped the glass, the aromas turned from violets to roses and the fruit went to pretty raspberry and cherry notes that reminded me of Pinot from the Cotes de Beaune. This is not cheap wine, likely to come in around $80 but luckily VERY few know this wine, otherwise, it could be twice as much and impossible to find!
257). Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg 2004 : Okay, if the last wine were akin to south cote Pinot, this is like Musigny!!! From an 80 year old, ONE hectare vineyard, this wine blew me away and I spent some quality time with it. Initially, it showed roasted meats, tight knit blackberry, cherry, currant, cassis, brioche and violets. With some persuasion, it opened up to an incredibly pure and sexy rendition of the same flavors but even more juiciness. In the back, some nuttiness started to come through along with more pretty floral notes and a hint of softly toasted wood. I plan to drink this wine over the next 20 years and think you should too! Awesome stuff.
Table 21 : Italy or Portugal Before, During or After Your Meal!
Wines 258-270: This was an interesting table of slightly sparkling wines made from grapes like Spergola, Malvasia, Lambrusco (not your fathers Lambrusco!) and Chinato and a few ports. Most of these wines were so esoteric and my palate was so spent, that no notes here would do justice to the art and craft of the producers. Maybe another time!
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10.18.08
Posted in Uncategorized at 8:50 pm by Lance Storer
Jean-Luc Thunevin’s rise to fame in the world of Bordeaux began with the premier release of his celebrated Chateau Valandraud in 1991. He quickly became known as one of the founding garagiste winemakers, a movement of quality crusaders who strive to make purer, riper wines than had been made in Bordeaux before.
Since turning Bordeaux upside down with Valandraud, Thunevin has spawned a virtual hit parade of garage wines, all miniscule production cuvees of rich, concentrated wines from very low yields. Pruning is adapted to each individual vine, systematic leaf thinning, green harvest to limit the number of bunches per vine are all hallmarks of the Thunevin methodology.
He seeks the optimal grape ripeness and has adopted Burgundian techniques of punch down and lees-stirring for perfect concentration. He neither fines nor filters and ages in all new barrels. His adeptness in the vineyard has drawn the attention of other chateau owners, making him one of Bordeaux most sought after consultants.
Thunevins avant-garde approach to winemaking led critic Robert M. Parker Jr. to dub him the bad boy of Bordeaux? I’m not sure that I see him as a bad boy, but rather a salient guide for a quality revolution in the region.
We were able to sit down with Jean-Luc this week to go through a number of his Bordeaux properties as well some interesting wines from the south of France. Here are some impressions of the wines.
Domaine Chiroulet Les Terres Blanches 2007: A blend of Gros Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc and Ugni Blanc. Quite dry with white flowers and citrus notes. Very light with zippy acidity and a moderate length, but refreshing finish. Great for appetizers, grilled fish and shellfish.
Valandraud #1 Blanc de Valandraud 2005: Quite frankly, given the lofty price tag of this wine (would have to retail for $250), I expected much, much more. It’s a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, but showed a harsh green character in a vintage that didn’t suffer from under ripe grapes. This was a little perplexing…may revisit in the future, but I wouldn’t pick this up now.
Domaine Chiroulet Cote de Heux 2006: I was very excited to try this wine for the simple fact that you don’t see many 100% Gros Manseng in the marketplace. But alas, it was corked! Yet another argument for screwcap closures, especially for inexpensive whites that are meant to be consumed young.
Domaine Chiroulet ‘Grande Reserve 2005: A blend of Merlot, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. Shows a rich blackberry and cherry fruit flavor profile with a supple texture throughout. There’s plenty of glycerin, good mineral and a long structured finish. This shows a lot of pedigree for its $25 tag.
Baby del Rey Vin de Pays ‘Cotes Catalan’ 2006: This is a juicy offering of unoaked (stainless steel only) Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Aromas and flavors of bright bing cherry, strawberry and raspberry are supported by a solid dose of white pepper and is followed up by a lengthy, mineral laden finish. Good value at $20
Calvet-Thunevin Cuvee Constance 2005: This is another blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah with no oak, but instead of stainless steel fermenting and aging, this is done in concrete, allowing for more even temperatures throughout, increased skin contact and more oxidation. The result is a dense, ripe red and black fruit driven wine with a really pure fruit profile. Despite the ripe nature of the fruit, it is well balanced with good acidity, plenty of mineral quality and a long finish. Even better than Baby del Rey for a buck more.
Calvet-Thunevin Cotes de Roussillon ‘Hugo’ 2004: Not for the faint of heart, this full-throttle blend of Grenache and Carignan with a touch of Syrah comes from 85-100 year old vines. All natural techniques are used here including no green harvesting (not needed with vines of this age) and no fining or filtration. It is a bombardment of blackberry, cherry, creme de cassis and bitter chocolate on the palate and the onslaught doesn’t stop there, continuing on through the finish which lasts a good 45-60 seconds. $60
Chateau Lalande Couturier Bordeaux 2005: This is a supple, easy drinking, Merlot driven wine from just outside of the Cotes de Blaye. It is an uncomplicated, fruit forward wine showing berry, cassis and cocoa notes with a soft, moderate length finish.
Chateau de Carles Fronsac 2005: This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon shows good ripeness but in an elegant, classy demeanor. I’m not typically a fan of this second wine, but in 2005, it is a very nice claret for a fair price. $25
Chateau Haut Carles Fronsac 2004: This is certainly not as soft and ripe as the ’05 Ch de Carles, but it represents a much more serious offering for Bordeaux enthusiasts. Blackberry, cherry, cassis, mineral and cigar box sum up this nicely balanced Fronsac. – $55
Commanderie de Mazeyeres Pomerol 2005: Nearly all Merlot with a dose of Cabernet Franc, this shows a rich, round and dense mouthful of black fruits laced with cocoa and graphite. The tannins are ripe and well-integrated for a young wine. Very nice indeed. Pomerol is difficult to make well and inexpensively, this is a really nice value. $60
Chateau Franc-Maillet ‘Cuvee Jean-Baptiste’ Pomerol 1999: It is hard to find any wine in the market with some age on it and I was really looking forward to trying this; however, it did not live up to my expectations, showing a greenness and harshness throughout in regards to tannin and finish. The fruit itself seemed ripe enough with flavors of plum, cherry and milk chocolate. Not a bad wine, but I wouldn’t pay $100 for it.
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